Sunday, 29 June 2008

Roundup part 2

That entry was waaaaaay too long. And I needed a beer.

Final kick in the teeth financially is the entrance to Nordkapp itself - 200 kronor (25 euros). I have some issues with this:

A - it's a car park on the edge of Europe. Grow up. The only reason I entered is I was a bit light-headed after the journey and really wanted a hot coffee (as opposed to the various Finnish energy drinks I had plentiful supplies of).

B - in the car park they've constructed a big visitor centre. Nice to have a cafe where you can shelter from the elements, but they've packed some shit into this one:
i) Some dioramas of historical scenes and bird life. Dioramas are all weak. (I could bang on about the ones in the Museum to the Great Patriotic War in Moscow - amazing museum commemorating such an important event in world history. But dioramas??)
ii) A chapel. A modern style one, all hip, about 15 trendy little seats, funky lighting and mood music. There may be good reason for this, but I was too blinded by indignation to read the little plaque.
iii) Cherry on the cake - a Thai museum. Which extended to a room with some Thai art, a little golden boat and a photo. Basically a ten minute walk down the Khao San road would equip you with a similar "museum". I know the Nordies get on well with Thailand, and it's to be applauded, but this is just weird.

C - Importantly, it closes at 2am. Irksome when one has just strolled in at ten to looking for a coffee, but spends 9 of those minutes scoffing at the irrelevant tat they've packed the place with. I did manage to blag a free one though.

They could at least have a bunk or two to get some shuteye out of the sun. Seriously, not easy snoozing with a T-shirt on your head. I drove back for an hour before building up sufficient exhaustion to sleep for 2 hours, then after another 100km, had a 3rd hour. As of 7.35pm, that's all I've had and I'm feeling pretty good.

Big thanks to Any (pronounced Anoo) of the Hotelli Inari...in Inari. She rescued me on the way up with a hearty plateful of the traditional dish - a hundredweight of broiled reindeer on mash with lingonberries. Top grub. Then on my return trip she sorted me out with a shower (in their sauna, no funny business, alas) and boiled eggs, ham and bread with tea. I felt like a new man, and no mistake.

The rest, as they say, was easy. From my few forays into the Finland woods for a wander I can confirm that the air was alive with flying bitey things, so very glad I took the motorised exploration option as I would have missed out on the breathtaking Norwegian scenery and outlandish Night-time sun (Finland was much cloudier).

Well done Northern Europe.

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